Showing posts with label Om Stina P/About Stina P. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Om Stina P/About Stina P. Show all posts

Wednesday, 13 January 2016

In print!

I've finally seen my coat in print! Threads kindly sent my a copy that arrived the other day, and I've carried it around since. Kind of.
The ruby red coat in Threads | www.stinap.com
The ruby red coat in Threads | www.stinap.com
I'm thrilled!

In case you want to read more, just scroll down one post to The ruby red coat in Threads, where you get links to the posts on making the coat.

Saturday, 2 January 2016

Follow me

I've added another way to follow this blog! If you don't want to get notified of new blog posts on Bloglovin', Feedly (my own preferred reader), RSS Feed or even my StinaP-blog-Pinterest-board, you can now subscribe to Stina P with e-mail. Just click on the @ on the right (the letter icon is if you want to e-mail me) and you'll get straight to the page for entering your e-mail address.

Or you can simple click here and you'll get to the same place.

Here's to lots of blogging in 2016!

Thursday, 31 December 2015

2015 - another year passed

I enjoyed putting a list together last year, so let's do it again. But in English this time.

Best creation
The dark blue lace skirt or the blue-grey jacket / cape? Can't really decide. They would look amazing together!
Jacket Cape in wool Vintage Vogue V2934 | www.stinap.com
Blue soutache lace pencil skirt sewing couture | www.stinap.com
Best outfit
I've struggled quite a bit with my wardrobe this year - as evident in far too many posts - and spent more time than usual in modal jersey and black, and far less time in vintage dresses. I'm still not sure where all of this is going, but I've felt most comfortable in pencil skirts.
Best buy: vintage
The 3/4 black circle skirt in silk faille. I think I've worn it once or twice a week since I bought it. Even though slim skirts are my new best friends.
Best buy: fabric
Oh. So much fabric has entered my home this year! How to decide what's best?
Fabric haul 2015 | www.stinap.com
Best buy: the rest
Apart from all the good food, massages, travels etc I'm so very pleased with the nightstand I found in Helsingör. And the floors and walls of my bedroom, if you can count that as a purchase.
Fleamarket find vintage nightstand | www.stinap.com
Best travel
I've only been away twice this year; London and Lisbon. Despite the gorgeous fabrics in Lisbon I'll have to go with London. The fabrics, the champagne and flamingos, spending time with family, the V&A and most importantly - the Clothworkers' Centre. Inside this magnificent building is a magnificent treasure of textiles - it's the archive for more than 100 000 pieces from V&A's vast collection. I was able to spend two hours with five pieces of haute couture, take lots of photos of them and signing contract after contract that I won't show them to anyone... I still can't believe I was there.
Clothworkers' Centre Blythe House London | www.stinap.com
Greatest shock
The e-mail from Threads Magazine wanting to feature my ruby red coat! Not perhaps a shock, but still a great surprise - that my blog is on Burda's top 50 list again! And that I really, really enjoy working out.
Working out | www.stinap.com
Greatest joy
That I've at least kind-of managed to mix my everyday work as architect / project manager with blogging and sewing, working out and everything else.
Greatest disappointment
That I've let the blog slip not just once but twice this year. And that I still have so many vintage dresses to sell, and so few clothes to wear.
Most yearned for
Time!
Most read blogs
My favourite blogs are still Gertie, Laura Mae and Marina, but like me, they've been blogging less this year. Overall, there seems to be less blogging (if you don't count the endless list of blogs about blogging and making money blogging about blogs and... I guess some parts of the blogging world must be thriving.) A nice new acquaintance is Lisa Comfort of Sew Over It and her vlog.
Most inspiring
The fabric stores in London and LisbonThe Clothworkers' Centre. Signé Chanel and Dior & I on screen. Gods & Gårdar (my guilty pleasure; a Swedish magazine on castles and mansions were people actually live!), Pinterest... This list can be long!
Gods och Gårdar | www.stinap.comWishes for 2016
I think I'll continue with the wishes from last year: more discipline, more romance, more travels, more inspiration, and more time.

As usual - a very happy new year to you all! And please, let 2016 be a brighter year for mankind...
Candle for mankind | www.stinap.com

Friday, 25 December 2015

Stina P and her overactive imagination

Remember me? Remember that I worked with my Ulitmate Dress Pattern for a couple of months, made a sky blue dress and then nothing more was heard of this pattern? Well, I wasn't too pleased with the fit. It was ok, but... And due to my (for me) intense workouts, my body changed overnight again (it's strange that it isn't happening slow and steady but rather huge leaps at a time) and the fit was even worse and I didn't even want to look at the dress again. So I tried a pattern from BurdaStyle and it was a bit small in the bust area and a bit big over the hips and I really didn't like all that fabric / draping so I did a toile of Gertie's wiggle dress, and the bust area was probably ok but HUGE over the hips (and I was a bit lazy while copying the pattern and didn't adjust any measurements) and then the pedal of my sewing machine broke and I sewed half the toile by hand and I just wanted a dress. So I tried on the sky blue dress again to see if I perhaps might be able to work some magic.

And this is where my overactive imagination comes in. The fit wasn't that bad. The dress was rather fine to look at, and will be rather fine for the summer. Perhaps I'll alter the fit, or I'll just have a rather relaxed dress or my body will have changed again. But the alterations I need for now was rather straight forward: some excess fabric in the armscye. A bit big over the hips. A bit of gaping in the back due to the low cut. So I did the alterations - and they didn't take long. And I certainly didn't need any magic...

I've been working in baby steps the past month. 15 minutes here and there, fixing the pattern. Trying to decided which fabric to use. Ordering zippers and bias tape. Steaming the wool once I've settled for the black crêpe from Lisbon.
Cutting black wool crêpe | www.stinap.com
So in a break from the Christmas celebrations I started to mark and cut my pattern. I've forgotten how much I love it (being at least two months since last time...). Then I took a break with some champagne, duck, beluga lentils and Life in Squares. Beautiful.
Champagne, duck and beluga lentils | www.stinap.com
Merry Christmas!

(I may have stolen the title from the rather amusing book "Olivia Joules and the Overactive Imagination" by Helen Fielding...)

Monday, 26 October 2015

Stina P on Best of Blogging 2015

While I'm enjoying Lisbon, the Best of Blogging 2015 list was published by BurdaStyle - and I'm so happy and proud to be on that list this year again!
Champagne breakfast | www.stinap.com
This was actually breakfast yesterday, but I feel it might be proper tomorrow as well.

I have so much on my blogging short list - the jacket/cape, the movie Dior & I and Raf Simons leaving Dior (!?), and new fabric found here in Lisbon. It will have to wait a couple of more days though. But once again THANKS - from one happy sewing blogger!

(And welcome new readers!)

Saturday, 17 October 2015

Voting has begun - Best of Blogging 2015

I have to admit, when I saw that voting has begun for BurdaStyles 50 best sewing bloggers 2015 my heart begun to pound. Would I be on the short list this year as well? I WAS!
So please, help me this year as well to make it to the final 50 sewing blogs! Just click on the picture, scroll down a bit to find the link for voting and choose Stina P and your two other favourite sewing blogs.

Now I'm on to some sewing - hope to show you soon!

Sunday, 13 September 2015

I didn't jinx it!

I was afraid that if I posted here before my coat shows up in Threads, I would jinx it all. I think I'm on the safe side - Sarah has confirmed that my photos were good enough to use, and today I signed the photo release to The Taunton Press to use my pictures!
Photo release Threads | www.stinap.com
I felt very professional signing that document. (It helps that's on a thick, structured paper as well, not the flimsy ones you're used to.) The coat is scheduled for issue #183 - can't wait!

Wednesday, 5 August 2015

Where do you want me to be?

Well, in case you haven't noticed, I'm really upping my blogging game. I do hope you like it as much as I do! I'm also trying to find my way through the jungle of social media. I love Pinterest, I don't understand Twitter and Facebook really seems better for friends than for blogs. So Instagram? I actually joined up a couple of days ago, just in time for Rachel's (of the House of Pinheiro) #sewphotohop for August. (Just searching for # on the keyboard makes me feel a hundred years old.)

Anyway, the question is, where and how do you want to follow me? Are you all reading through Feedly or Bloglovin' or some other reader I don't know about? Is it Pinterest or Facebook or Instagram and please don't say Twitter? (Or YouTube. That would be even worse.) Somewhere else where sewing bloggers gather?
StinaP on Instagram | www.stinap.com
Yes, you can see I would be grateful for more followers...

(And look look - brand new social media icons to the right!)

Wednesday, 22 July 2015

Are you afraid of jinxing it?

Well I am. At least when it comes to writing it down and publish on the blog. But I will anyway, mostly because it's so great news but also to get back in the blogging saddle.

I'm gonna be in Threads Magazine! Or not really me, but my coat. I got a lovely e-mail from Sarah at Threads a couple of weeks ago, saying they would love to have my garment featured!

The first plan was to fed-ex the coat to Connecticut. I thought it was a crazy idea, thinking it might be cheaper to put me inside the coat on a regular flight, but it felt so good to tell people my coat was being fed-exed to USA for a photo-shot. After Sarah looked at the cost for shipping, we settled on me taking the photos.

Of the instructions I got, one was to pick a neutral background. Well, if you know me, you know I don't have any neutral backgrounds. Sea green doesn't really count, but it was the best one. The only problem with my light and bright apartment is there are shadows everywhere - even on rather cloudy days.

I used the same dress stand for this one, only moved around the padding from hips to bum to support the pleating. The bodice of the coat needed a lot more support than the Dior jacket; I guess both because of the weight of the skirt and because it's so much softer and less tailored and engineered than the jacket. There's a huge amount of padding on the dress stand, and when I ran out of that, handkerchiefs and silk scarves had to suffice.

You do not want to know how many photos I've taken. (Well, you probably do. 189.) There is always some lump or wrinkle or crease or strange angle or annoying shadow - or some padding on their way out. But just now, I selected the best 10 and sent to Sarah for an evaluation.
Coat for Thread's
Well, this wasn't among the chosen ones. See the sad and limp left sleeve? No good. (The photos will of course be silhouetted and everything, but I leave that to the pros at Threads.)

I just hope I don't jinx it by publishing it here.

Monday, 20 July 2015

Slowly and with a couple of detours

Well, I'm slowly working my way back to sewing and blogging with a couple of detours. And some bronchitis.

But I did spend some time in Stockholm last week, and surprisingly enough I didn't spend any money on Simbra Siden. I did spend some, but worryingly little, at Ohlsons tyger. (Worryingly not because I-planned-to-spend-more-what-is-wrong-with-me but worryingly because under what circumstances was this fabric made when it only cost me 60 SEK per metre?)
Fabric viscose
The fabric is so far from what I normally buy, but for that price and 100% viscose I still thought it worth a chance. (I thought about Oonaballoona when I bought it but I think she would describe it as rather discreet...) I also bought some elastic thread - I thought of a dress (duh) that's easy to throw over your head when you're going to the beach or picking up some milk. Shirring in the back, something simple in the front, straps, and a skirt. Not too wide, I only bought 2 metres. But that's not first in line.

First in line is a dress from the Ultimate Dress Pattern. I ironed the fabric yesterday, despite the bronchitis, and also ironed the lining (after both fabrics been pre-washed of course). I went to Malmö a couple of weeks ago to drink champagne with a very dear friend, and made (another) detour to buy Bemberg lining, the Queen of linings (or so I've heard. I haven't used it yet.)
Ironing Antiques Roadshow
(I watched the Antiques Roadshow (BBC-version) while ironing. What you see (if you have super vision) is a painting of the then new queen Elizabeth II. The (female!) artist got a piece of her dress material to be able to paint it well, since the painting is based on a photograph (also taken by the artist). Isn't that amazing? A piece of the fabric of the dress the queen wore?)

I'm still going back and forth on the lining. I'll use the Liberty Cotton Tana Lawn that I imagine is very nice to have close to your skin. On the other hand, that requires more frequent washing, and since it's a rather fitted dress, also a lot more wear on the derrière. A lining, just slightly smaller than the main fabric, would handle that wear so the bum doesn't start to sag. (The bum of the dress, not mine.) But, once again, it is a summer dress and adding another layer, even if it is the Queen of linings, could make it less breezy to wear. I do need to decide soon. And decide on the neckline, both front and back.

Other detours have included a small re-design of my blog. I love the new fonts! And an over-all cleaner appearance. (I started considering Wordpress instead of Blogger since that seems to be what everyone is doing, but the more I read the more hesitant I become. It seems like quite a lot of work, both building it up and maintaining it. And I do love the simplicity of Blogger, compared to the dashboard of Wordpress which I've encountered on my posts for We Sew Retro. So I decided to stay where I am and just fix it up a bit. I hope you like it!)

Instead of buying new clothes in Stockholm, I bought a new perfume. It fits great in with my Pinterest boards of a luxurious and ladylike - Crème Brûlée from Laura Mercier. It's sweet, and there's lots of vanilla, without being too cute or too sweet or too girly - actually it's described as "decadent yet sophisticated". I love it.
Duck and champagne
Of course I drank champagne. And ate some duck (isn't that what you do on vacations?) And bought a book with taglines such as "like Kitchen Confidential but for tailoring" and "You'll never look at a suit in the same light again..." Dramatic, eh? I'll report back!

Today I finally got around to clean my new (vintage) nightstand that I bought at a flea market in Helsingör last weekend. I'm glad it wasn't any bigger, because it was perfectly enough to carry that one home through Helsingör, on the ferry and running to the bus to take me home. It fits so brilliantly in my bedroom that I hardly can believe it - fifty shades of green!
Vintage nightstand
And, finally, what do you do when you're working on your comeback? Of course, you buy some new gadgets. I've felt the need for better photos on my garments - both sewing and vintage - but it's so damn hard. So this cute thing will help me hold my camera or phone, and another cute thing will be the remote (but the second cute thing didn't work so I'll need to exchange that). Then - outfit pictures here we come! (The only problem left is the object, i.e. me who never will be very photogenic.)
Photo gadget
Well, I said there was a lot of detours. Now I really need to decide on those necklines. And give this bronchitis some rest.

Saturday, 23 May 2015

The return

I've said it before. Inspiration can come from the strangest places. Last summer it was gluten free scones for a week in Bath, followed by a video on Charles James by Gertie.

This time it seems like it's Barbie that brings my sewing mojo back. And that is perhaps not as strange as it may sound - she's been the height of fashion for the past 50-60 years; I loved to dress her as a child (and teenager...) and have no problem "helping" my nieces with their Barbies. For her sixth birthday K will get the full aunt-experience: with sleepover, some food including Nutella and sewing a Barbie dress. Have you looked on Pinterest for sewing Barbie clothes? I warn you - what happened to me could happen to you. I found Matisse Fashion and Doll Patterns, and wow can this lady sew. And her style is impeccable! I don't want these clothes for Barbie - I WANT THEM FOR MYSELF.

So now I'm working on the Ultimate Dress Pattern.

As you can see on my new Pinterest board - Barbie's Vintage Wardrobe - the dresses are of a rather simple cut and construction, but in exquisite materials and colours. They would be easy to make by modifying a simple, slim (and well-fitting!) sheath with sleeves. So there's my ambition for this weekend - making the pattern and getting the perfect fit and then finally start with one of my many new glorious fabrics...
Fabrics
(Well maybe not starting with the real fabric this weekend; I also need to share my blouse with the world (since I'm sure everyone is just waiting for me to do so), return some shoes, do some accounting, and modify a dress stand so I can show off my Dior jacket at work. More on that another day.)

Sunday, 26 April 2015

Spring is flying by

Ouch. Time flies. When I wrote the previous post I had a feeling that I would take a week or maybe two to re-group and get back on track. It's now been four and I don't know if I can say I am on that track.

However, it's not like I've been feeling bad - I've been feeling great! But all my thought, creativity and energy has been used for starting up a rather grand project at (my regular day-to-day) work. I'm simple not capable of being creative with dresses and fabrics after 10 hours at being creative with words and project management - and I do love the beginning of a new project!

But yesterday, I was back at some Stina P-activities, visiting Malmö vintage fair for the last time (you have found me there in 2012 (here and here), 2013 and 2014.) Last time because the organisers says it is their last - but maybe someone else takes over? I do hope so!
Vintagefair Malmö 2015
It took me about four minutes to decide on my first buy, a lovely vintage fabric. (Yeah, I really need more fabric since I've been sewing so much lately...)
Pale green acetat satin vintage fabric
A very pale green (sometimes a pale pink) shimmering satin weave acetate. It will make a lovely dress (of course).

The next trio took a bit more time. I tried it on, thought about it, was able to put it on hold for an hour, thought some more about it, called my sister ("you only regret what you don't buy"), thought for two minutes more and then bought the lot. A black silk faille 3/4-circle skirt that fits perfectly, a dark green and black 60's little number and an AMAZING French black silk faille dress with draping from the 50's and as close to couture that I have ever been.
1950's black silk faille 3/4-circle skirt
1960's cocktail dress in dark green and black
1950's vintage french black silk faille dress with draping
Black always photographs so bad...

Lovely detail on the boat neck on the black-and-green one (and of course there are lingerie guards in the inside!).
1960's cocktail dress in dark green and black detail boat neck
And some details of the silk faille dress. The draping is interlined with silk organza, then the viscose lining and finally a firm cotton to hold the shape. The zipper is put in by hand, there are lovely gussets in the kimono sleeves and I actually don't think it's ever been worn. (Neither has the green one, part of the original tag was left.)
1950's vintage french black silk faille dress with draping
1950's vintage french black silk faille dress kimono sleeve gusset
1950's vintage french black silk faille dress Elyane Rue de la Paix Paris
Elyane - Rue de la Paix, Paris. That is one fancy address! I can't find so much information, but it seems like they made lots of hats in the 1950's. And some very nice dresses.

So what else have I been up to these past weeks? Well, looking through my photos; eating a lot.
Chocolate for easter
Chocolate for Easter. The pralines actually cost five times more than the hen...
Roasted sweet potatoes, fillet of pork and home made Bearnaise sauce. And cava. And season three of The Great British Sewing Bee. Neil is amazing - I hope he wins (I have two episodes left, so please, no spoilers!)
Enjoying spring, sun, being outdoors, some shrimp salad and the horizon that I love so much. Some days there is no question at all about why I live in this town... Also, trying to decide on the colour of my bedroom walls (I've only been trying since I moved in. In 2010...)
Colour bedroom walls sea green
I think I've made my mind up - this lovely sea green shade actually goes very well with the more yellowish green of my screen.

I do hope that this is the beginning of getting back on my regular track. If not, please have patience with me!

Saturday, 21 March 2015

Sewer's block

I have a cabinet full of lovely fabric.
Fabric cabinet
I have a very long list of possible projects.
Sewing plan Trello
I have a bunch of possible patterns - not including all I can draft by myself.

I have a couple of unfinished objects under my bed.

And still I don't get started. What do you do when you suffer from creative melt down?

Saturday, 7 March 2015

The people have spoken

You want me to write in English.

I'll give it a good and honest try - for the next three months I will leave my mother tongue behind and try to not make a mess of the good old English language. Please excuse all my swenglish and grammatical horrors (I did one in the headline, published and then deleted it as soon as I could. Oh my) and everything in between. (Since July 2014 all blog posts have a short English summary. Before that, it's just Swedish.)

As for today, I'm eagerly awaiting my first sewing student ever - who also happens to be my niece. Hopefully, she won't become injured - or bored - making her first skirt. I hope the same for me. 
cotton with flowers
And a picture of her chosen fabric, bought in India.

Wednesday, 25 February 2015

Den stora språkfrågan

Sen ett par veckor tillbaka undersöker jag vilket språk jag ska ägna mig åt på bloggen. Man kan svara English eller Svenska lite längre ner till höger. Det intressanta är att Blogger säger att mer än hälften av läsarna kommer från Sverige (och borde föredra svenska) medan undersökningen så här långt visar precis tvärtom; 66% föredrar engelska.

Visst skulle jag kunna skriva allt på både svenska och engelska, men det tar ju (nästan) dubbelt så lång tid. Och jag är ju en kvinna som tycker om många ord... Och vi ska ju inte glömma; svenska är verkligen mitt modersmål och det märks, framförallt när jag skriver längre texter, att engelska inte är det. 

Since a couple of weeks back, I'm trying to decide which language to use here on the blog. You can answer English or Svenska a bit further down to the right. What's interesting is that Blogger says that more than half of my visitors are from Sweden (and should prefer Swedish) while the poll this far shows the exact opposite; 66% prefers English. 

Sure, I could write everything in both Swedish and English, but it takes (almost) twice the time. And I am a woman of many words... And we shouldn't forget; Swedish really is my native tongue and it shows, especially when I write longer texts, that English isn't. 
Kolibrier
Bilden har inte ett dugg med saken att göra, men alla inlägg förtjänar en bild. Kolibrier på Natural History Museum i London. (Det kommer mer London!)

The picture has nothing to do with anything, but all posts deserves a picture. Hummingbirds at the Natural History Museum in London. (There will be more of London!)

Wednesday, 11 February 2015

Mellansnack

Medan jag gör mig redo för bloggposter om en vinterkappa och en Londonresa - glöm inte att ge din åsikt om jag ska skriva på svenska eller engelska här till höger! (Och kappan fungerade utmärkt i London. En dag var det så mycket vår i luften att jag kunde bära den uppknäppt och utan alla hattar handskar och halsdukar jag normalt slår in mig i så här års.) Och ja, den där koppen är ny - från Liberty!
Fika i februari
While I'm getting ready for blogging about at winter coat and a London journey - don't forget to tell me your opinion about me writing in Swedish or English (survey to the right). And the coat was excellent in London. There was so much spring in the air one day that I could wear it unbuttoned and without all the hats, gloves and shawls I normally wrap myself up in this time of the year.) And yes, that cup is new - from Liberty!

Sunday, 25 January 2015

Verktyg för att sy

Det är lätt att tro att sömnad är en väldig materialsport. Och tittar man in i mitt vardagsrum - som jag stundtals kallar ateljén när jag vill vara lite flott eller för att bortförklara ("det kreativa") kaoset - kan man verkligen tro att man fått beviset för det. Och jag tycker ju det är så roligt med en massa fina små pryttlar som kan hjälpa till med det ena och det andra! Vissa går igång på skiftnycklar, jag på saxar. I alla fall, till min hjälp i denna verktygsdjungel har jag Thomas von Nordheim. Hans bok om Vintage Couture Tailoring är ju en favorit hos mig, och inte minst kapitlet om utrustning - Tools of the Trade. Fast vill man börja sy kommer man väldigt långt med tre saker. Nål, tråd och strykjärn.

Man har bevisligen kunnat sy helt magnifika skapelser utan symaskin i ett par tusen år, så att hävda att just symaskinen är ett måste är en överdrift. Däremot skulle inte ens jag som gillar att sy för hand sätta igång med ett klänningsprojekt utan en (bra) symaskin till hands - när det nu finns symaskiner menar jag.

Däremot kan du inte pressa utan ett strykjärn, och utan att pressa ser allting hemmasytt ut - på det dåliga sättet. Jag är egentligen helt fel ute själv eftersom jag har ett högst oproffsigt husållsstrykjärn. Det är visserligen ganska nytt och ruinerade mig inte, är tyngre än vanliga - vilket är bra när man vill pressa - har imponerande ånga (i alla fall jämför med mitt förra) och läcker inte vatten (som mitt förra) - och jag är sjukt nöjd med det. Heather skrev ett imponerande inlägg om strykjärn i höstas som täcker det mesta och von Nordheim pratar om strykjärn som väger 15 kilo (6 kilo räknas som"lätt"...). Fast jobbar man inte i tunga ulltyger tycker han 1,5 kilo är rimligt. (Var tvungen att ställa mitt på köksvågen. 1,3 kilo! Nämen då är det ju inte så illa som jag befarade!)
Strykjärn pressverktyg
Till samlingen vid strykbrädan hör också pressdukar. (Du vill använda pressdukar för att undvika att tyget blir glansigt, och ibland blöta för att verkligen pressa till en söm). En i sidenorganza som gör att man ser vad man gör och några tjockare i linne. (von Nordheim slänger in en i ull också för när man pressar just ull!) En sprayflaska. En presskudde och olika ärmbräden (köpta av min syster för tio kronor styck på en loppmarknad. Jag har två till i källaren) är också en stor hjälp.

För att vara väldigt små är nålarna väldigt viktiga. Det finns inget mer irriterande (i sy-sammanhang) som när nålarna är lite slöa och gör märken i tyget. Mina knappnålar (utan glas- eller plasthuvud som bara är i vägen) är på upphällningen - även om jag slänger dem så snart de blivit sneda eller slöa så har de sett sina bästa dagar. Kanske för att jag inte gör som Thomas von Nordheim - tvättar dem i vatten och sprit så fort jag tappat dem på golvet...? Mina favoritnålar när det kommer till handsömnad är broderinålar nummer 9. Även de börjar ta slut - nålar har en märkvärdig förmåga att försvinna.

När du HAR nål, tråd (vilket är en hel vetenskap men jag gillar sysilke bäst) och strykjärn tycker jag det är dags för en symaskin. Det finns hur mycket tips och råd som helst om att köpa symaskin. Jag säger; enkelhet och kvalitet. Kommer du att använda dekorationssömmar i form av krokodiler? Nä, tänkte väl det. Strunta i allt sånt jox och hitta en symaskin som syr raksöm och zick-zack - och som syr JÄMNA stygn i raksömmen. Köp hellre en begagnad av god kvalitet än en ny av sämre. Jag har en mekanisk - till skillnad från en datoriserad - och skulle det hända något med min Bernina 1000 Designer skulle jag försöka hitta en likadan, eller en Singer från 50-60-talet.
To make tailored couture garments all you need is a machine with a simple straight stich; this is what is used in all the tailoring workrooms. The simpler something is, the less likely it is to go wrong. Old machines are very soldily built and many of them can last for several generations. 
von Nordheim rekommenderar Singer - eller (till min glädje) "above others Bernina" och säger samtidigt att en del couturehus använder maskiner för hushållsbruk snarare än industrimaskiner - eftersom industrimaskinerna går för fort för den kontroll man vill ha i en couture-ateljé.
Bernina 1000 Designer
Det enda jag vill tillägga om symaskiner (för jag har trots allt bara sytt på samma Bernina i minst 20 år) är att provsy innan man köper något. Med olika slags tyg i olika tjocklekar för att se hur den beter sig. Är inte alla stygnen lika långa, och lika snygga och prydliga både på ovansida och nedansida så är det inte värt att köpa den.

Och du klarar dig inte utan en sax. Det är nog den jag är mest rädd om - den ska inte klippa i något annat än tyg (möjligen om tyget dubbleras med silkespapper) och helst inte av någon annan än mig själv. Jag köpte en Kai 7250SL (slim & light) efter att ha testat den på en skräddarkurs. Den passar mina händer perfekt, och jag kan klippa mycket, länge och precist utan att bli trött i handen. För mig är det ett måste med klädda handtag - det är dösnyggt med metallhandtag men ouff vad ont det gör. Det är dock den typen av saxar von Nordheim rekommenderar, av rejält engelskt och tyskt stål.
Saxar Kai 7250 SL Fiskars Storksax
Jag har en liten saxsamling - förutom Kai som jag använder enbart för att klippa tyg har jag en zickzacksax som jag använder väldigt mycket istället för att just zickzacka saker och ting - inte minst foder. Min gamla skräddarsax - den stora orangea - använder jag till tyll och kraglärft och liknande, den lilla orangea till mönster och storksaxen till att klippa alla trådar.

Någon slags nåldyna är inte dumt - även om den är ful som stryk gör den rutiga kudden sitt jobb eftersom den har resårband så man kan ha den runt handleden. Fingerborg behövs när jag syr länge, och jag brukar hålla ögonen öppna för en riktigt flott i silver. Den här är i stål och är köpt för kanske 25 kronor. En sprätt skulle jag inte klara många dagar utan; den här börjar spricka i plasten så jag borde skaffa en ny (von Nordheim hävdar att en sån har ingen plats i ett couture workroom eftersom man aldrig ska skära sönder tråden, utan dra ur tråden stygn för stygn. Men det är ju precis det som den är bra för? Klart jag inte skär sönder tråden; hur gör man då?). Den lilla sömometern (hette phiphikus på syslöjden) är ovärderlig för att få till de där korta måtten. Ett måttband förstås för de långa (men det missade jag på den här bilden. Den skarpögda ser det gula på symaskinsbilden).
Sytillbehör
Förutom de där fysiska verktygen vill jag dessutom hävda att tålamod, nyfikenhet, och vilja/envishet/jävlar anamma är väsentligt. Har du inte det (eller vill skaffa) - skit i att sy. Gå till affären eller en skräddare istället.

Och så yta förstås. Det tar plats att sy, och det bästa är förstås att ha någonstans att göra det utan att behöva plocka ihop det varje gång. Men det tror jag får bli ett eget inlägg.

About what you need for sewing. To start with, a needle, some thread and an iron. Then a sewing machine, scissors and other small stuff. You'll also need some patience, curiousity and stubborness. If you don't have that - or want to get it - don't start sewing. Go to the shops or a tailor instead. Space is another question; but I think we'll get back to that. 

Wednesday, 21 January 2015

Siden Sammet

När jag är i slutfasen av ett sömnadsprojekt går det väldigt, väldigt långsamt. Jag tror egentligen att jag hade kunnat avsluta kappan idag, men istället fållade jag upp en klänning som redan hängt ett par veckor, började med ett blogginlägg om vilka verktyg man behöver för att sy och letade vintagemönster för mitt Vintage Pattern Sewing Pledge.

Och sen satte jag mig med en av mina bästa böcker - en Maria Lang som utspelar sig i en syateljé!
Siden Sammet Maria Lang
Förutom att det är en väldigt bra deckargåta kan Maria Lang sina tyger och miljön i en ateljé.
Siden Sammet Maria Lang
Jag hade inte tackat nej till vare sig rosa shantung eller stormönstrat helsiden...

Nu ska jag läsa ett par timmar och sen sova. Till helgen blir kappan klar, jag lovar!

Instead of finishing my coat, I hemmed a dress, searched for vintage patterns and started a blog post about tools you need for sewing. And then I sat down with one of my best books - a crime novel by Maria Lang (the Swedish version af Agatha Christie) taking place in a sewing atelier. She knows not only about murders but also about fabrics! 

But I will finish the coat this weekend, I promise!

Saturday, 17 January 2015

Planer för 2015

Egentligen tycker jag det är lite läskigt att berätta om mina planer, eftersom jag är rädd jinxar dom då. Men så fick jag frågan direkt, från Nora på Kollabora: What are your plans for 2015? (Och Nora är ju inte vilken Nora som helst - hon är kvinnan som skapade Burdastyle.com åt Burda samt founder och CEO för Kollabora.

En kreativ panel på Kollabora fick svara på en hög med frågor om 2015, så det är väl inte mer än rättvist att jag gör samma sak när jag nu tyckte att det var så inspirerande att läsa svaren.

I'm a bit hesitant about telling about my plans, since I'm afraid to jinx it by speaking about them. But when asked directly, and by no other than Nora at Kollabora, I had to answer. A creative panel at Kollabora answered a bunch of questions, and it's only fair that I do the same since it really inspired me. 

What craft would you like to learn in 2015?
I would love to try some pearl or bead embroidery - I'm so totally fascinated by Lesage and love hand sewing, so something small like a necklace or collar is on my list.

What skills would you like to improve on?
All. But "couture sewing" above all. And something about time - getting more done!

What goals do you have for your blog or site in 2015?
More visitors and more connection with the sewing community. 

What big craft purchases do you have planned in the new year?
Hopefully not too big, but a haberdashery cabinet would be wonderful. And the usual fabric hoarding of course.

What’s the biggest blog or tech obstacle you want to overcome in 2015? 
Understanding SEO so all the good (hrm) stuff I write is actually found by someone!

How do you plan to keep your projects organized for 2015?
I really hope this will work: New Year's Revolution for the big picture, Pinterest for inspiration, Padlet for my different projects and Google Keep for all the reminders! (Have I mentioned I like organizing and planning...?)
Update: Padlet is gone and Trello is tested instead. 

Do you have any advice for setting blog or craft goals?
Slow and steady wins the race? That's what I hope at least!

What advice to you have for someone looking to start their own blog or site?
Do more, plan less? And do it because it's fun, not because you should.

What do you think is missing in tech or blog platforms that would help your blog or site succeed?
No idea.

What has been the most helpful resource to you this year?
The internet in its entirety - where else can you find anything from inspiration (from yesterday or from 1953) to knowledge and friends at the blink of an eye?

Thursday, 1 January 2015

Adjö 2014 - goddag 2015!

Igår firade jag slutet av 2014 med galet god mat och galet gott sällskap. Själv maxade jag med modig klänning över dubbla underkjolar, svinhöga klackar och strassdiadem i håret. Under champagneskålandet var jag den enda som inte frös i mina vintagepälsar.
Stina P vintageklänning 1950-tal
Idag firade jag början på 2015 genom välplanerad långfrukost.
Nyårsdagen frukost
Jag och nyår har helt enkelt inte den bästa historien, men det ville jag ändra på i år. Förutom att själva aftonen blev superlyckad hade jag förberett för att första dagen skulle börja rätt. Efter de obligatoriska äggen blev det därför (glutenfria, hembakta) croissanter, favoritchokladen (ljus tryffel med havssalt), kaffe, antiktidning och två presenter. Den ena bara för att jag fick handdukarna så fint inslagna i affären, den andra hade jag hoppats skulle hinna fram till jul. Eftersom den inte gjorde det blev det nyårspresent istället.
Draping Art and Craftmanship in Fashion Design
En tjock bibel om drapering. Jag har läst strålande recensioner, och eftersom det bland exemplen finns två vintage Dior som draperas så kunde jag inte motstå den... Min egen recension av den kommer så småningom!

Nu firar jag vidare med räkor, dokumentär om slott och kanske lite mer champagne...

Yesterday, I celebrated the ending of 2014 with good food and good friends, in bold colours and glitter. This morning, I celebrated the begining of 2015 with a great breakfast and gifts for myself, including a book on draping. The celebrating will continue with shrimps, a documentary on castles and perhaps some more champagne...
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